Deep gold in color, rsquo;95 Cristal is an architectural beauty. Fine bubbles lift the wine rather than foam up the mouth, carrying the flavors high across the palate, raising the aroma from something sauvage toward the boldness of the red fruit blend. It turns more toward the chardonnay, toward wheat, and then toward an airiness that coasts off into the finish even as the red and white flavors stick to the palate in the strength of their youth. A powerful wine without any overt display of that power, this should age beautifully.
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